A moon button on the recording, track-detail and roads maps inverts ONLY the
tile layer: body.dark-map applies `invert(1) hue-rotate(180deg) brightness(1.5)`
to .leaflet-tile-pane, so the track/route/roads/puck overlays keep their colours.
Works the same on offline (tiles_*.db) and online tiles — no keys, quotas or
tile repacking. The choice persists in localStorage (baldav_dark_map).
Chosen after ruling out dark tile providers (CARTO/Thunderforest/2GIS/Yandex —
keys/quotas/ToS/projection/RF-reachability) and the transport style (inverts
badly in dense city); plain OSM inverted looks good city and countryside.
Verified on device: filter on the tile pane only, overlay pane filter none,
button active and remembered.